Quilted Coasters

I’ve seen Pins about Quilted Coasters but I’ve never taken the time to give them a try.  I was looking at having a few coasters at work so I decided today’s the day!  The only issue I’ve had is the tension on my bobbin seems to be off and gave me a lot of issues, so before I make another one that will need to be fixed!

I opted not to put any batting or anything else in the middle because I was afraid it might get too thick and not work as well.  I will test them out at work first to see how well they work before making more.

I found a really pretty design with all triangles and decided it was time to start having fun with different triangle patterns.  I drew out the pattern and mapped out what I would need.  I made both sides the same pattern, so I doubled what’s in the note.

  • Dark Green & Light Green: 8 (16 total)
  • Light Green & Dark Pink: 4 (8 total)
  • Dark Pink & Light Pink: 4 (8 total)

For the coaster I also wanted each finished square to be 1 in x 1 in, so I wanted 1 1/2 inch squares to sew together.


I didn’t want to cut and sew so many tiny pieces so I went for the most productive way to generate many quickly.  I cut 1 1/2 inch strips of the fabric and sewed the two different colors together (right side facing inside), sew along both ends of the strips.


Take one strip and lay it on the cutting board and use the 45 degree angle to cut the triangles.  First you will need to trim the end, make sure to line up the 45 degree line with the stitching at the top.  Then change the rule around so you have a triangle, again lining up the 45 degree line with the stitching at the top.  Repeate until you have used up as many triangles as possible with the strip.  It’s hard to say how many triangles per strip because I was using scrap and they were all different sizes.


Iron each piece into squares then lay out the pieces out in the pattern you want, make sure to do this with both the front and back of the coasters.  I didn’t want to accidentally sew the wrong sides together so this worked great when there was a lot going on in the house (and I took a lunch break before finishing).


Take two pieces totgether at a time and sew.  I started at the top left on one block, then the top left on the next.  By taking one at a time it allows me to have a hole and easily remember where the other piece went.  After sewing the two pieces together I also trimmed the ends that were outside of the square, to make the entire piece square/rectangle (not shown below, I started doing that after I took pics).


After sewing two pieces together into a rectangle, I sewed the next top two pieces into squares.  Then I kept picking pieces to sew together until the block was completed.


This was rushed, and I had some serious tension issues that I was trying to work around, so they are not exactly perfectly square.  That’s what I like about home made things, they are all unique and each typically have some type of “flaw”.  Take the two pieces and place them nice fabric facing nice fabric, trim any pieces sections that are not lining up nicely.  I also flipped it over and trimmed any additional pieces that were outside the bounds.  Sew along the edge leaving about an inch to turn it right side out, I always prefer to leave the hole in the middle of a straight edge.

Turn it right side out, and use a chopstick (or something similar) to get the corners crisp.  Iron the sides flat, I pressed as hard as I could and steamed it a few times.  Make sure to iron the opening folded over so you can sew along it easily.  Sew along the outside and your done!


I actually really like these!  It turned out really nice with the exception of my tension issues.  I can’t wait to get the tension fixed so I can make more!  I’ve decided that I want to make a few for home as well.  We have sand stone coasters and sometimes the glasses sweat and stick to them, so we will see how well these work!  

How to make a Potato Bag

The bowl potholders were such a great addition to my kitchen (and office), I decided to try and make a potato bag.  I’ve made a few adjustments from the first one, so as I make more I will use the below steps to get the perfect potato bag!

You can make them any size; in fact, I suggest making a few different sizes!  I use a smaller one at work for just me and larger ones at home for the family.

Before we start, let’s talk about fabric.  Fabric should be 100% cotton, so should the thread.  You also need 100% cotton batting.  You can pick any pattern you want for the outside.  If you want you can use the same pattern on the inside, but I like to pick a natural color that is not died.

How to get the measurements

If you want a potato bag that is 6 ½ inches wide by 9 ½ tall all you need to do is the following:

Width: To get 6 ½ inches add 1 inch for the seam, cut the piece 7 ½ inches

Height: to get the final bag of 9 ½ tall, take 9 ½ (Front) + 9 ½ (Back) + 2 (Top Flap) = 21 inches add ½ inch for the seam to cut a 21 ½ inches.

Final piece should be 7 ½ inches by 21 ½ inches.

Instructions

(1) Cut your fabric: For each potato bag cut one outside piece (My Colored Fabric), one inside piece (My White Fabric), and one piece of batting.

(2) Lay your two pieces of fabric on top of each other with the outside pattern facing inside.  Your pieces will eventually be turned inside out, so make sure you put the pattern pieces facing each other.  Then place the batting on the top of the two pieces of fabric.  The image below shows the inside out fabric and layers; you will want to stack them on top of each other.


(3) Pin or clip the pieces together once you have them lined up.  I typically have the batting a bit larger, so I will flip it over after pinning three sides and trim the batting so all three layers are exact.  I then pin or clip the side I trimmed and remove one side at a time to trim.


(4) Sew around each piece of fabric leaving a spot open to turn the piece inside out.  I typically do this on one of the short sides.


(5) In the gap you left open, separate the top and bottom fabric and turn the piece inside out.  I like to use a chopstick to press out the corners.


(6) Iron along the three sides, and for the gap iron the pieces so you can easily sew along it to sew up the gap.  I like to iron one side, flip it over and iron the other.  I inspect the gap and make sure that there is enough folded over to avoid not sewing the pieces together nicely.

(7) Sew along both short sides.  Only sew along the short sides!


(8) Place the fabric with the fabric you want on the outside facing up.  For me, I place the white fabric down and pattern up.  Fold over the top piece about two inches.


(9) Take the bottom piece and fold it up to the top of the folded over piece.  If your confused, look at the second image closely


(10) Pin the top section that has three layers


(11) When sewing, start on the side without the clip, when you get to the other edge (the side with three layers), turn it around and sew back to where you started.  I like the second stitch to help reinforce the opening edge.


(12) Turn it right side out and your done!

The Grinch Stuffed Animal

Looking back at the pictures on my phone and past blog posts I realize I missed at least one sewing adventure. Enjoy the below post about how to make your own stuffed Animal pattern!

The Grinch More

Mason Jar Potholder

The bowl potholder a were such a hit, my sister asked if I could make one that fits a mason jar. I thought a box shape would fit best. 

I wasn’t sure about the size, I measured the diameter of the jar and decided to start with a 5x5x5 cube. After it was finished I decided a little smaller would fit better.
Original: 

Note: use 100% cotton fabric, batting, and thread so you can use it in the microwave. 

  • Cut 2 – 15×5 fabric
  • Cut 2 – 15×5 batting
  • Cut 4 – 5×5 fabric
  • Cut 4 – 5×5 batting

Updated smaller one:

  • Cut 2 – 15×4 fabric
  • Cut 2 – 15×4 batting
  • Cut 4 – 5×5 fabric
  • Cut 4 – 5×5 batting

Take the 5×5 fabric and place on 5×5 batting. Sew from corner to corner to make an x. Repeat with the remaining 3 pieces.   

Take one of the rectangle fabric and place it on one rectangle batting. Than take two of the 5×5 pieces and pin or clip to the ends. Sew an x in the middle section, unclip/ump in the two sides and see an x in both sides. Do this for the other rectangle pieces. 

   Place one of the 5×5 pieces in the middle and sew along the edge. Repeat on the opposite side and other pieces. 

  
 

Fold poopsite sides together, it’s hard to explain so here is my thousand words summed up in the below pitcher.  Repeat with the other piece. Sew on the two outer sides. Fold in the opposite direction and sew the last two sides of the cube together. 

  

  Take one piece and turn it right side out, than place it inside the other piece.  Sew around the edge leaving an opening to flip right side out. 

    
 Iron the top of the box and sew around the edge and your done!   

 

Design a Quilt in Excel

I’m finally (almost) finished with my first quilt.  Before I go into the actual quilt, I felt it might be helpful to go over the process I used to design the quilt.  I looked at several different quilt blocks and after a lot of looking I found one similar to what I wanted to use.  For this specific quilt I wanted to have 6 larger blocks with images on them as the focal point, so something simple to complement the images.

Once you have an idea of what you’re looking for, reach for (1) graph paper or (2) Excel.  I’m used to using Excel and I knew if I used graph paper I would go through a LOT of paper. The other thing I like about using Excel is I can easily copy and paste to make slight modifications to see how it will affect the overall look of the quilt.  For this overview I’m going to use the Excel method, if you prefer graph paper the same basic concepts should apply.  I’ll make another post later about how I am using Excel to design my T-Shirt quilt. More

Quilted Magnet 

I was having fun searching the DYI section of Pinterest and I found this cute quilted magnet.  I knew it would be a perfect use for some magnetic name tag pieces I found. If you don’t have strong magnet you may want to skip the batting.  I figured it would be a nice quick little project, so that’s how I started my afternoon.   

 I made two, for both I started by sewing some scraps together. 

 For the first one I cut 4 strips, two slightly larger than the other (next time I’ll make them the same size).  After cutting I sewed the pieces together.     

Finally I cut them to size, I think 3×3 squares are perfect!  I cut a black backing 3×3 and placed the front and back on a piece of scrap batting.  Leave a small gap between the two than quilt the two pieces.  Cut around the sides to remove any extra batting, don’t cut between the two pieces. Fold in half than sew around leaving a gap to turn inside out.  Turn inside out, this is yet another great use for a chopstick.   

 Iron well, making sure the open end is folded in good. Place the magnet inside and see around all 4 sides, depending on how big the magnet is, you may need to re-adjust the magnet on each side. 

I love how they turned out and it’s a great way to use up some scraps. 

Large Flax Seed Heating Pad

After really enjoying the warmth of the flax seed hand warmers I knew I had to make foot warmers!  This is another very simple project and a great way to stay warm on cold winter days/nights. 

I folded a half yard in half than cut 12 inches.  Un-folded the cut fabric should be 44-46 inches long (depending on the width of the yard) by 12 inches. The first one I made was 9 inches wide, it works nice and can be on the neck; however I felt a few additional inches would be nice for the feet in bed. 

Fold the fabric in half inside out, it should be 22 or 23 inches by 12 inches. Sew around the fabric leaving an opening in the middle of the short end. Flip right side out and iron.  Sew around the three ends with out the hole.   

   
Fill with 5 lb of whole flax seed.   

See the open end shut and it’s done!   

 And here is a comparison of the two different sizes.    

 Heating instructions: heat in microwave for 2 1/2 minutes, shake and flip over, heat for another 2 minutes.

I place at the foot of the bed under the covers. I found it stays warm for a few hours under the blankets. 

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