DYI Tick Tack Toe Board

My kids are at the age where they love tick tack toe and other similar games.  I thought it would be nice to make a tick tack toe board for them to use when out and about.  I was thinking of making some for younger kids, so I wanted to have the playing pieces about 1 1/2 inches big.  I also wanted the front and back to be opposite fabric, both being fun looking for the kids.

It’s a pretty easy project!  You need two different pieces of fabric, one with a pattern and another solid color that matches the pattern.

First I cut three (3) 2 1/2 inche strips from both the pattern fabric and the solid fabric.  Then cut two (2) 1 inch strips from both the pattern and solid fabric.  

Take one piece of 2 1/2 inch pattern fabric and sew the 1 inch strip to the fabric.  Sew another 2 1/2 inch pattern fabric and 1 inch strip together.  Iron both flat and sew the two pieces together matching the pattern to the solid fabric.  Finally sew the last 2 1/2 inch pattern strip along the 1 inch solid strip.  You will want to do the same with the other solid 2 1/2 inch strips and pattern 1 inch strips.  Make sure to iron between steps.

How that you have a long strip of board pieces cut them 2 1/2, make sure to cut 3 pieces per tick tack toe board you are making (per side).

Cut two strips 1 inch wide that are the length of each piece, this should be about 7 3/4.  Sew the two strips between the three pieces similar to the first step above.  Make sure to iron between steps, and once the board is finished press it really good!  Take your front and back pieces and place them with the nice fabric on the inside.  You may want to trim any fabric that does not line up nicely.  Sew along each side leaving about an inch or two to flip it right side out.  Turn it right side out and use a chopstick to shape the corners.

Iron after turning right side out and be sure to iron the opening you used to turn it right side out so it’s easy to close it up when sewing along the edge.  Sew around edge and it’s done!

I purchased some large buttons from Amazon that worked really well for playing pieces!  They are all cute, fun and most important everything is washable!

Quilted Coasters

I’ve seen Pins about Quilted Coasters but I’ve never taken the time to give them a try.  I was looking at having a few coasters at work so I decided today’s the day!  The only issue I’ve had is the tension on my bobbin seems to be off and gave me a lot of issues, so before I make another one that will need to be fixed!

I opted not to put any batting or anything else in the middle because I was afraid it might get too thick and not work as well.  I will test them out at work first to see how well they work before making more.

I found a really pretty design with all triangles and decided it was time to start having fun with different triangle patterns.  I drew out the pattern and mapped out what I would need.  I made both sides the same pattern, so I doubled what’s in the note.

  • Dark Green & Light Green: 8 (16 total)
  • Light Green & Dark Pink: 4 (8 total)
  • Dark Pink & Light Pink: 4 (8 total)

For the coaster I also wanted each finished square to be 1 in x 1 in, so I wanted 1 1/2 inch squares to sew together.

I didn’t want to cut and sew so many tiny pieces so I went for the most productive way to generate many quickly.  I cut 1 1/2 inch strips of the fabric and sewed the two different colors together (right side facing inside), sew along both ends of the strips.

Take one strip and lay it on the cutting board and use the 45 degree angle to cut the triangles.  First you will need to trim the end, make sure to line up the 45 degree line with the stitching at the top.  Then change the rule around so you have a triangle, again lining up the 45 degree line with the stitching at the top.  Repeate until you have used up as many triangles as possible with the strip.  It’s hard to say how many triangles per strip because I was using scrap and they were all different sizes.

Iron each piece into squares then lay out the pieces out in the pattern you want, make sure to do this with both the front and back of the coasters.  I didn’t want to accidentally sew the wrong sides together so this worked great when there was a lot going on in the house (and I took a lunch break before finishing).

Take two pieces totgether at a time and sew.  I started at the top left on one block, then the top left on the next.  By taking one at a time it allows me to have a hole and easily remember where the other piece went.  After sewing the two pieces together I also trimmed the ends that were outside of the square, to make the entire piece square/rectangle (not shown below, I started doing that after I took pics).

After sewing two pieces together into a rectangle, I sewed the next top two pieces into squares.  Then I kept picking pieces to sew together until the block was completed.

This was rushed, and I had some serious tension issues that I was trying to work around, so they are not exactly perfectly square.  That’s what I like about home made things, they are all unique and each typically have some type of “flaw”.  Take the two pieces and place them nice fabric facing nice fabric, trim any pieces sections that are not lining up nicely.  I also flipped it over and trimmed any additional pieces that were outside the bounds.  Sew along the edge leaving about an inch to turn it right side out, I always prefer to leave the hole in the middle of a straight edge.

Turn it right side out, and use a chopstick (or something similar) to get the corners crisp.  Iron the sides flat, I pressed as hard as I could and steamed it a few times.  Make sure to iron the opening folded over so you can sew along it easily.  Sew along the outside and your done!

I actually really like these!  It turned out really nice with the exception of my tension issues.  I can’t wait to get the tension fixed so I can make more!  I’ve decided that I want to make a few for home as well.  We have sand stone coasters and sometimes the glasses sweat and stick to them, so we will see how well these work!  

Closet Makeover!

My closet was in serious need of a change.  I really needed shelves and less hanging space.  I’ve thought about what I wanted and when I finally figured it out it was demo time!  Before starting I had to take down the lower clothing rack and shelf.  This was the worst part, seriously!  The “fake” screwes were a huge challenge to get out, but eventually that task was completed.  Then I measured and drew lines on the wall with where I wanted the shelves.  I also drew the top and bottom line to make sure when I put the 2×4’s for support they go in the correct place.  

The next spot was to find the studs.  I couldn’t find our stud detector so I took the corner and measured out 16 inches.  I read a magnet can help ensure you have the stud, so I took a megnet and moved it up and down until I found the stud.  I marked on the wall where each stud was and screwed the 2×4’s on the wall.  Finally I screwed each shelf to the 2×4’s with at least two longer screws.

This gives me a lot more space to work with!  I use the top shelf to store my purses, the bottom has some drawers I was already using, and the bottom shelf is for pants, shorts, pj’s etc.  I’m thinking of making some cloth baskets to make it look a bit neater.  The floor just has some junk and my shoes, but now that I have the space I can start to get it organized!

Ironing Board Station

I have a lot of interesting projects I’m working on; I’ve attempted to make some slippers, I have more chair pockets for my one of my kids classroom, and I’ve finally started back on my t-Shirt quilt. In the short term, I wanted to post about my exciting new ironing board station.

With my increase in sewing projects I’ve not only grown out of the flimsy standard ironing board, but my board also had some lumps on the top making ironing a challenge. Looking on Pinterest I found two basic options, (1) attach a board to the top of my standard ironing board and (2) use a bookshelf or counter and get rid of the old ironing board.  My dad’s hobby is woodworking, so I gave him a call up and put in my order with my dimensions.  The table top is 53 inches by 18 inches and it stands 35 inches tall.  I requested a slot in the back to slide my cutting boards and tools and two shelves.  Here are a few pitchers before I put the top on.

There are a lot of different posts on how to finish a wooden ironing table, I debated using ironing board fabric but in the end decided against it. I decided two layers of 100% cotton batting and one top layer of 100% cotton fabric would be enough.  A few things to keep in mind:

  • If you are making the table or wooden surface, don’t finish the wood. My dad left the top mostly sanded; it was smooth so I wouldn’t get a splinter but a little rough still so the layers would stay in place (my dad’s idea, not mine).
  • Use 100% cotton, other blends could melt.
  • Sturdy wheels are VERY nice! I move my ironing board around a lot to begin with, so the wheels will come in very handy! I keep mine un-locked right now as it doesn’t move too much on it’s own on the carpet, but when we get hardwood flooring I will defiantly keep them locked when in use.

I had a great visit to JoAnn’s, they had an amazing sale! I got 100% cotton batting in the “Baby Size” (45 in x 60 in) already on a great discount.  That size allowed me to get two layers of cotton batting on first.  I set out the first layer over my new Ironing board and trimmed the long side first, than the short side.  I took the second layer and matched it up with the first to trim the last piece to size.  I suggest a little bit of overhang.  Finally, I took 2 yards of my 100% cotton fabric of choice (it was 50% off clearance prices!) and followed a few steps to allow for a draw string to keep it tight.  I thought the sharp corners might bunch up funny so I went for a curved/flat corner.  If I did this again I would cut a triangle off the corner instead of rounding the corner.  I also let too large of gap for the draw string so I had to re-sew about half what I did.  The steps below are what I will follow if I ever need to re-do the top.


  1. Leave about 4-5 inches on each side of the ironing board top.  Place the fabric on the surface it will cover and line one long and one short end up with 4-5 inches.  Fold the opposite long side over the table to the edge, than measure 4-5 inches several places and cut.  I folded both long ends up first.  Repeat on the opposite short end.
  2. Cut a small triangle off each corner
  3. Sew a thin seam to keep the ends from fraying
  4. Sew about 1 inch pocket to feed the draw string through, make sure to leave a hole for the draw string to enter/leave. I used one of the corners for the draw string hole, most of my corners naturally had a hole already due to how I sewed it.
  5. Get a sturdy string to feed through (mine was pretty flimsy, so eventually I will look for a stronger string and re-string it).
  6. Once the string is in, attach to the table.
  7. If it appears sturdy but the middle has a gap use two clips and a string to keep it tight.

And finally, I went through some of my sewing stuff cluttering up the corner of my room and organized it into a few more boxes. As you can see the shelving is already very helpful in organizing some of what I have.  I still have a lot more work to do when it comes to organizing my sewing stuff, but this is a great start!

Stuffed Animal Net

If there is one thing my kids have too much of, its stuffed animals.  We recently adopted a dog, and because she loves stuffed animals we had to put all the stuffed animals in storage.  I remembered when I was younger, I used to love my stuffed animal net. I looked online to see if anyone had any good examples, there were a lot!

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Water Bottle Dog Toy

This summer marks a first for us as we expanded our family. You guessed it, we got a dog!  As we bought the basics I looked at the different toys, specifically stuffed animals as our new pup seems to live them. I thought it was interesting that some had a water bottle in them, so before spending too much on so many toys I decided to try and make one.


This project was very easy-to-sew and took about 5-10 minutes. Find sturdy fabric, scrap batting (optional), and a cleaned out water bottle. Sew the legs and arms, then stuff them. Take two rectangles that are a few inches wider and several taller, sew batting onto them. The batting is optional but will give it a nice full look. Sew the two sides and bottom with the legs stinking inside, leave the top open. Turn it inside out, add the water bottle, fold the fabric down on the top then sew the top together. More